the journal
Plain answers about skin, makeup and the things I recommend
Routines, ingredients and what actually suits which skin. I read the research so you can skip the marketing.
Skin concerns
How to Get Rid of Blackheads on Your Nose: A Realistic 8-Week Plan
Use 2% salicylic acid a few nights a week, add adapalene if they persist, and give it 6 to 8 weeks. First check they are not sebaceous filaments.
Skin concerns
How to Fix a Damaged Skin Barrier: Signs and a Two-Week Reset
Stop what is stripping it, then keep three steps for two weeks: a gentle cleanser, a ceramide or petrolatum moisturizer and sunscreen. Signs, plan, red flags.
Ingredients
Azelaic Acid in the UK: Over the Counter vs Prescription
Shops sell azelaic acid as a cosmetic, mostly at 10%. The 15% gel and 20% cream are UK prescription medicines for acne and rosacea. Which one you need.
Sun protection
Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Which Is Better for Your Skin?
Both protect well. Mineral uses zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and suits sensitive skin; chemical filters go on sheer. How to tell them apart and choose.
Skincare routines
Skincare Routine for Oily Skin: Morning, Night and What to Skip
Morning: gel cleanser, niacinamide, oil-free moisturizer, sunscreen. Night: cleanse, salicylic acid a few nights a week, light moisturizer.
Ingredients
Is Retinol Being Banned in the UK? The Vitamin A Rules Explained
No. The new retinol limits are EU rules: 0.3% for face products, 0.05% for body lotion. Great Britain has not adopted them, though Northern Ireland follows them.
Skin concerns
Dehydrated Skin vs Dry Skin: How to Tell Them Apart and Fix Each
Dry skin lacks oil and is your skin type; dehydrated skin lacks water and can happen to anyone, even oily skin. A quick self-check and what fixes each.
Ingredients
Niacinamide vs Retinol: Which One Do You Need, and Can You Use Both?
Niacinamide is the gentle all-rounder for oil, redness and marks; retinol is the stronger renewer for texture and lines. How to choose, and how to combine them.
Skin concerns
How to Fade Dark Spots on Your Face: What Works, and How Long
Daily sunscreen, one proven brightening ingredient, and 8 to 12 weeks of patience. How to match the plan to acne marks, sun spots or melasma.
Sun protection
How Much Sunscreen to Use on Your Face (and Why It Matters)
Two finger lengths of sunscreen for your face and neck is the amount SPF is tested at. Most people use far less. Here is how to get enough on, every day.